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					  <title><![CDATA[TRAUMATIC STRESS IN HORSES...]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/88/TRAUMATIC-STRESS-IN-HORSES.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[<strong><font face="Comic Sans MS" color="#ff0000">TRAUMATIC STRESS IN HORSES</font></strong><font face="Arial" size="2"><br/><br/>Reactivity in horses, as in humans, is visible and can be evaluated and healed.&nbsp; Signs in horses are a highly-activated automatic startle response (ASR), acoustic reactivity, body shudders, excessive snorting, shallow breathing, wide eyes, high head - we've all seen it.&nbsp; The horse releases catecholamines and serotonin levels drop.&nbsp; The neurochemistry feeds the body and the body feeds the neurochemistry and the fear cycle is in full swing.&nbsp; In some horses whose brainstem (limbic system) search for unnecessary stimulus, this can be overwhelming.&nbsp;&nbsp;Often, the fear is due to past abuse as we see in sanctuary and rescue horses, but the good news that with time and patience this can be mitigated or completely healed.<br/><br/>The best remedy is creating secure attachments in the horse, a first-line defense in human PTSD therapies. &nbsp;This gives the horse's innate ability to self-regulate a boost up.&nbsp; In horses, as in humans, the impairment of basic trust in herdmates, people and its surroundings creates trauma, fear, nervousness, anxiousness and spookiness.&nbsp; Cortisol, released in fear cycles, can be toxic to certain parts of the brain, interfering with regulating anabolic (pro-life) neurochemistry.&nbsp; In extreme cases, in horses, as in humans, we see aggression, self-mutilation and non-social behaviors take over. &nbsp;Lucky are the horses that have a good ability to self-regulate.&nbsp; Those that cannot need our help.<br/><br/>A feeling of safety </font><strong><font face="Arial" size="2">in the body</font></strong><font face="Arial" size="2"> creates positive memories in the horse and with time, these memories become stable as they widen out in neural networks in the horse's brain.&nbsp;&nbsp;At first, the feeling of safety is tenuous as the chemistry etches itself lightly into the brain tissue, new axons connecting with each other. &nbsp;Over time, these memories strengthen as the body does its job. &nbsp;What can we do to help horses in their living, training and recreational environments to overcome their spookiness - much of it being a legacy of their herd lifestyle.&nbsp; Stay and play or run away?&nbsp; In a world where 99%&nbsp;of their natural predators no longer exist, we think they should feel safer than they do but they remain the creation of their evolution.<br/><br/>1.&nbsp; Stay calm in your interaction with the horse. &nbsp;This requires great self-discipline and comes from a quiet and strong core supported by rhythmic and effective breathing.&nbsp; If the horse hears you hold your breath, it signals alarm to him.<br/><br/>2.&nbsp; Establish a routine in your interaction with the horse so it recognizes the pattern and try not to stray from it in the beginning.<br/><br/>3.&nbsp; As you deal with your nervous horse, visualize it relaxing and becoming calm. &nbsp;Horses are energetic beings. &nbsp;They do not have the ongoing mental garbage stream running through their heads like we do.&nbsp; They are alert for what comes next. &nbsp;Make <strong><em>next</em></strong> easy to handle.<br/><br/>4.&nbsp; Patience is your greatest tool.&nbsp; Patience and baby steps.&nbsp; Take each forward movement as a sign of hope and take each step backward step as a natural occurrence in the healing process.&nbsp; Do not be self-critical nor critical of the horse.&nbsp; In other words, do not be outcome-invested but live in the process.<br/><br/>5.&nbsp; Use techniques such as Equine Stress Control Therapy (ESCT) to modulate the fear in your horse.&nbsp; Massage therapy also works wonders if the horse can be touched.&nbsp;If your horse has been vet-checked, you can assume the anxiety is not physically based due to injury, but don't rule out the possibility completely.&nbsp; Keep an open mind and a discerning eye.<br/><br/>6.&nbsp; Go back to square one with your horse and build the relationship one brick at a time.<br/><br/>7.&nbsp; The most effective method for healing fearful memories in horses is to create interrupts in that fear cycle.&nbsp; ESCT does this through gentle bilateral tapping on the boney structure of the horse, interrupting the fear cycle and creating a relaxation response in the horse.&nbsp; The interruption then allows the axons in the old neural network in the horse's brain to disconnect and the formation of a new&nbsp;network that incorporates the feeling of in-body wellness.&nbsp; This is achieved in several sessions lasting 15 to 30 minutes each and involving a stressor or stressful situation, or simply as a relaxation tool.&nbsp; The horse will move to wellness on its own as it is directed to do so my evolution.<br/><br/>8.&nbsp; In any retraining, rehabilitation or therapy session, you are the anchor for your horse and self-regulation should become automatic for you over time so you don't buy into the horse's fear.&nbsp;&nbsp;That's the hard part.</font>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Sun, 13 Jun 2010 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
					 <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/88/TRAUMATIC-STRESS-IN-HORSES.html</guid>
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					  <title><![CDATA[KEEPING YOUR HORSE COOL IN HOT WEATHER]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/87/KEEPING-YOUR-HORSE-COOL-IN-HOT-WEATHER.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<div id="sidebar">
<div class="gB" id="gB3">
<h5>
<p onmouseover="return zhl(1,1)" onmouseout="zhl(0)">Provide ample fresh, clean water. Check daily that buckets or troughs are not contaminated with bird droppings, insect larvae, chaff, or algae growth. Try to keep the water cool. Horses may not want to drink warm water. Ponies and foals may have trouble reaching to the bottom of a shallowly filled trough. Make sure everyone in your paddocks can reach the water. </p></h5></div></div>

<div>
<ul>
<li>Sponge or hose down the large blood vessels along the inside of the legs, belly, and neck. Don&#8217;t spray the horse&#8217;s face or get water in its ears&#8212;sponge them down gently. 

</li><li>If you must work your horses hard, try to schedule your session for early morning or late evening when it is cooler. 

</li><li>After riding or driving in hot weather, cool your horse down slowly. Loosen girths or belly bands immediately after a work out. Offer sips of cool&#8212;not cold&#8212;water and walk the horse slowly. Muscles are more apt to stiffen if the horse is allowed to stand, and moving muscles dissipate heat better than stationary ones. 

</li><li>Consider using <a href="http://horses.about.com/od/basiccare/qt/electrolytesqt.htm"><font color="#3366cc">electrolytes </font></a>if your horse is sweating hard, such as when the combined humidity and air temperature exceeds 104 degrees Fahrenheit or your horse will be working hard (a long trail ride or competition). Electrolytes replace salts lost in sweating. They are similar to human sport drinks. You can put electrolytes in the horse&#8217;s feed, or use a large-ended syringe to squirt into the mouth. Use electrolytes made for horses. Electrolytes made for other livestock may be unsuitable. 

</li><li>Make sure there is a place for your horse to avoid the sun, either a building or a shade tree. 

</li><li>Clip horses with heavy coats. Be careful not to clip too close however, since exposed skin can sunburn. 

</li><li>Apply zinc oxide cream to horses with pink noses to prevent and treat sunburn. 

</li><li>Mid to late summer weather often means that grass growth slows down and pasture quality declines. Make sure your horse is getting enough fodder and consider supplementing with hay if necessary. Horses need energy to stay warm and cool. Adjust your feed mixture if your horse begins to lose condition in hot weather. 

</li><li>During very hot weather, consider keeping your horses stabled during the day, and let them out at night. 

</li><li>If your barn becomes hot and stuffy, consider setting up a fan. Make sure the horse cannot reach the cord or fan itself, it can&#8217;t be tipped, and that it is plugged into a ground fault interrupt electrical receptacle if there is any chance of electrical wiring coming into contact with moisture, such as a spilled water bucket or a curious horse&#8217;s mouth. 

</li><li>If hot weather brings clouds of biting insects that keep your horse pacing and stomping, try using fly sprays, masks, and sheets. Water-based fly sprays may be less harsh on the coat hairs, as oil-based ones can cause bleaching. 

</li><li>Whether you are at home riding or competing, a bucket full of ice water and old towels can help refresh you and your horse. Place them over your horse&#8217;s neck and your own. A drop of lemon, mint, or citronella essential oil on the people towels is an energizing touch. 

</li><li>Take care of yourself. If you get overheated and tired, you may not be able to take care of your horse effectively. And you could miss warnings that your horse itself is showing signs of heat stress. 

</li><li>Heat stroke can happen to horses whether they are working hard, standing in stuffy stables, or traveling in trailers. Call a vet and take immediate action if your horse exhibits any of these symptoms: 
</li><ul><li><p>Elevated respiration in an inactive horse (normal range is 4 to 16 breaths per minute). 
</p></li><li><p>Elevated pulse in an inactive horse, pulse that does not drop after several minutes, or climbs once exercise has stopped. 
</p></li><li><p>Profuse sweating or no sweating at all. 
</p></li><li><p>Elevated body temperature above 103F. 
</p></li><li><p>Irregular heart beat known as &#8216;thumps.&#8217; 
</p></li><li><p>A depressed attitude. 
</p></li><li><p>Dehydration. Test for this by observing your horse&#8217;s flanks. If they look caved in, he is probably dehydrated. Pick up a pinch of skin along your horse&#8217;s neck. If the skin snaps back quickly, the horse is sufficiently hydrated. If the pinched area collapses slowly, the horse is dehydrated.</p></li><p>
<p><b>What to Do Until the Vet Arrives</b> 
<p>Use shade, cool water, breezes, or fans as best you can. Stand your horse in a pond or stream. Sponge or spray the large blood vessels along the inside of the legs and belly. Offer sips of water. <!--/gc--></p></p></p></ul></ul></div>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2010 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
					 <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/87/KEEPING-YOUR-HORSE-COOL-IN-HOT-WEATHER.html</guid>
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					  <title><![CDATA[EQUINE COLIC]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/86/EQUINE-COLIC.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<h2><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#cc0000">Equine Colic</font></font></b></h2><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Colic is one of the most dangerous and costly equine medical problems, estimated to occur in 1 of every 10 horses each year (Tinker et al., 1997), it is the number one killer of horses. It is not a disease but a combination of signs that alert us to abdominal pain in the horse. Colic is a general term indicating abdominal pain. (n.) Spasmodic pain in the horse, usually caused by spasm of the intestine; (v.) The reaction of a horse to abdominal pain, kicking, rolling, sweating. The digestive system of a horse is a complicated series of interactions among many different organs. The small intestine alone is 60 feet long in your average size horse. Equine Colic can originate from the stomach, the small intestine or the large intestine. The entire digestive network is suspended and nourished by a thin membrane called the mesentery. Any malfunction, displacement, twisting, swelling, infection, or lesion of any part of this complex body system is what we recognize as colic. There seem to be countless situations which can precipitate colic. Many conditions causing colic become life-threatening in a relatively short period of time.</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Because of the organs involved in colic, there are many types of causes of colic.</font> <br/>&nbsp; 
<table width="100%" border="0">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#cc0000"><font size="+2">The Organs Involved in Colic</font></font></font></b> <br/><img height="515" src="http://www.gaitedhorses.net/images/digtrac3.gif" width="276" nosave="NOSAVE"/> <br/>&nbsp; <br/>&nbsp; <br/>&nbsp; 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><b>A. </b><font size="+1">The horse's small, one compartment stomach.</font></font> <br/><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size="+1">B. Small Intestine</font></font> <br/><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size="+1">C. Cecum&nbsp;</font></font> <br/><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size="+1">D. Colon&nbsp;</font></font> <br/><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size="+1">E. Small Colon</font></font> <br/><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font size="+1">F. Rectum</font></font></p></td>
<td><font face="Arial,Helvetica">The main causes of colic are intestinal distension and reduced blood supply to the intestinal tract. Peristalsis (the waves of contractions along the muscular walls of the intestine that propel the contents along ) of the intestine is reduced and distention will occur due to reduced movement and absorption of water and nutrients. The pressure which results from this lack of passage of material through the digestive system results in a reflex action, which causes adjoining areas to contract in spasm. Distension and reduced blood flow may be due to an accumulation of gas fluid or feed, digestive disturbances, intestinal obstructions, internal parasites, or twisted intestine (torsion and volvulus).&nbsp; Chronic distension may be caused by a horse constantly swallowing air "wind sucking".</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">The primary causes of the abdominal pain is the distention of the stomach or intestines, pain is also produced when the peritoneum is stretched during attacks of colic. The first response the body makes to distension is to INCREASE the secretion of digestive juices, which increases the pressure, and causes dehydration and imbalance in the chemical systems of the body. This can often become a feedback reaction which can lead to shock , which must be treated as a separate syndrome by the vet, since it is frequently the cause of colic deaths. The paralysis of the intestine also allows toxic material to escape through the stretched walls and enter the abdominal cavity, where the horse can be poisoned by his own intestinal contents.</font> 
<p>&nbsp;</p></p></td></tr></tbody></table>
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#cc0000"><b><font size="+2">Signs of Colic</font></b><font size="+1"> </font></font>will vary according to the severity of the particular conditions. In the horse, abdominal pain is usually sudden. Very few horses exhibit all the signs at one time. Signs associated with mild to moderate pain include:</font> 
<ul>
<li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">pawing the ground,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">sweating</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">looking around at the belly,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">restlessness,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">lack of appetite,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">stamping the hind feet, and</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">lying down.</font> </li></ul><font face="Arial,Helvetica">With more severe, unrelenting pain, horses may:</font> 
<ul>
<li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">paw the ground violently</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">appear drawn up or bloated in the belly,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">muscle tremors or straining,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">male horses may stretch out and relax their penis, without urinating,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">kick violently,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">sweat profusely,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">lie down and get up frequently,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">roll or lie on their backs,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">sit on haunches like a dog,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">have an elevated or below normal&nbsp; ( with shock setting in ) temperature,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">have an increased respiration rate,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">have an elevated heart rate, or</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">have few or no gut sounds.</font> </li></ul><font face="Arial,Helvetica">A horse showing severe signs of colic should be seen by a veterinarian immediately. If the signs of pain are acute and the cause of the distention is not removed, death often occurs within 12 to 48 hours. <b>Rapid diagnosis and treatment are vital. </b>In cases of mild pain, the veterinarian should be consulted as to the best course of action. Be sure to give the vet your horses symptoms when you call,&nbsp; put the horse in a comfortable stall and remove his feed and water. Allow the horse to lie down if he appears to be resting. If the horse wants to roll or is behaving violently, attempt to walk him slowly. Don't try to treat the horse CALL YOUR VET and be prepared to provide the following information:</font> 
<ul>
<li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">temperature, pulse and respiratory rate. ;</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">color of mucous membranes and capillary refill time (tested by pressing on the the gums, releasing, then counting the seconds it takes for color to return);</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">behavioral signs, such as pawing, kicking, rolling, depression, etc.;</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">presence or absence of abdominal,digestive sounds or lack of them;</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">bowel movements including color, consistency and frequency;</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">any recent changes in management, feeding or exercise;</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">medical history including deworming and past episodes of abdominal pain;</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">breeding history and pregnancy status if the patient is a mare, and recent breeding history if the patient is a stallion.</font> </li></ul><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Along with any other symptoms noted above. Avoid administering drugs because certain drugs can mask clinical signs of colic, making an accurate diagnosis difficult. A horse does not need to be walked constantly if it is lying quietly and not attempting to roll or to continually get up and lessen his chance of survival if surgery is required. Walking the horse 15 min out of one hour is recommended by many Vets.</font> 
<p><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#cc0000"><font size="+2">Diagnosis</font></font></font></b> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000">There are various causes of colic and since the prognosis and treatment varies greatly with each, early recognition and accurate determination of what type of colic the horse is experiencing is very important.</font></font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#000000">Veterinarians often perform a rectal exam, intestinal contents and their position can indicate to the Veterinarian presence or absence of intestinal motility and the location of the obstruction or impact. A stomach tube may be passed, stomach contents or gas can help the Veterinarian decide the type of disorder and the severity of the condition. Other symptoms your vet will note include pulse ( rate should be less than 80 per minute for a favorable prognosis), temperature, presence or absence of intestinal sounds. Generally, the prognosis is excellent when pain is due to excessive activity of the intestines, good for pain due to impaction, and very poor for pain caused by twisting or intusssusception of the intestines ( unless surgery is immediate).</font></font> 
<p><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#cc0000"><font size="+2">Some Causes of Colic</font></font></font></b> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">There are several nutritional aspects of colic which can be managed, thereby reducing the incidence of colic.</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><b>Digestive colic </b>may result from:</font> 
<ul>
<li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">a horse overeating,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">a horse constantly swallowing air "wind sucking",</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">a sudden change in diet,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">consumption of moldy feed,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">turnout on the wet pastures of early spring,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">a heavy meal before work,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">feeding or watering before proper cooling after work.</font> </li></ul>
<p><br/><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Intestinal obstructions may result from sand impaction, retention of the meconium in foals, foreign bodies, and impactions caused by poor quality hay. Horses kept in sandy environments and fed on the ground or over grazed pastures are prone to consume more sand, predisposing them to sand impactions. Foreign bodies consumed by the horse may provide a nucleus where minerals are deposited until a large foreign body is formed. This foreign body is often referred to as enterolith (intestinal stone).&nbsp; Mature, highly fibrous hay has been implicated in impaction colics. Water deprivation and stagnant warm water may contribute to impactions.</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Parasitic load has long been stressed as a potential cause of colic. Internal parasites, especially Strongyles, cause severe damage to the intestinal arteries, reducing or blocking the flow of blood to segment of the intestines. Migration of larvae in the walls of the arteries causes the walls of the vessels to become roughened and scarred. Clots form on the roughened areas and may reduce the size of an important branch of the artery. Ascarids (roundworms) may cause blockage of the small intestine in young horses. Bots in large numbers may cause blockage of the stomach. Therefore, it is recommended that horses be maintained on a regular deworming program tailored to their individual parasite load.</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Twisted intestine is a condition in which a portion of the small or large intestine is twisted on itself partially or completely. Twisting may result from rolling or from another cause such as a buildup of gas causing the distended intestine to twist. There is no simple cause effect explanation of colic, because many of the effects on the stomach, small intestine and large intestine are related. For example, blockage or impaction at the junction of the small and large intestines may be due to reduced blood flow because of strongyle larvae migration or due solely to sand impaction.</font> 
<p><b><font face="Arial,Helvetica"><font color="#cc0000"><font size="+2">Diet and Management</font></font></font></b> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Anatomically, horses have developed a specialized digestive system which allows them not only to survive, but also to thrive on high fiber diets&nbsp;&nbsp; Studies have shown a decreased likelihood of a colic problem if horses are allowed to graze. However lush, high moisture spring pasture can also be a colic risk in horses. Colic problems in horses consuming large amounts of high moisture, low fiber grass virtually disappeared when horses were offered dry hay while grazing these pastures. Therefore, from a colic management standpoint, it is recommended that horses have access to pasture whenever possible, and be provided with additional dry hay when pastures contain a high moisture and a low fiber content (lush spring pasture).</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Since horses are anatomically designed to digest fiber, the addition of grain concentrates to the diet is a potential risk factor for colic. Normally, grain concentrates contain large amounts of starch that are absorbed in the small intestine. Starch which is not digested in the small intestine spills into the large intestine where it is fermented by bacteria. One of the end products starch fermentation is lactic acid, which irritates the gut lining and decreases intestinal pH. The increase in acidity causes other more prevalent bacteria to die and release potentially fatal endotoxins. All of these situations can potentially cause the horse to colic. Using processed grains ( Steam crimping/rolling and grinding or pelleted), limiting the amount of grain provided in a single meal and the use of dietary fat as an energy source&nbsp; to reduce the amount of grain concentrate needed in the diet all will help reduce grain induce colic.</font> 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">Horses confined to stalls have an increased likelihood of colic (Reeves and Salman, 1993).&nbsp; First, horses are designed by nature to consume forage in a continuous manner; however, stalled horses are routinely fed their hay and grain in two distinct meals (morning and evening). Second, stalled horses may not be receiving adequate forage to maintain proper gastrointestinal function. This may be especially true for horses being fed alfalfa hay. Alfalfa hay typically contains more calories per pound than grass hay. Therefore, horses fed alfalfa would be provided fewer pounds of hay per day than horses consuming grass hay. Not only are horses fed alfalfa receiving fewer pounds per day, reducing the amount of time spent eating, but alfalfa hay also contains less fermentable fiber than grass hay. The quality of fiber fed can also influence colic potential. Moldy hay, hay containing blister beetle contamination and hay with low digestibility can contribute to instances of colic. Since horses seem to have an absolute requirement for forage in the diet to prevent colic, it is recommended that a minimum of one pound of dry forage (hay/pasture) per 100 pounds of body weight per day is provided. For horses confined to stalls, the selection of lower calorie hays (grass type) will provide the horse more pounds of hay and mimic the continuous feeding behavior during grazing.</font> <br/>&nbsp; <br/>&nbsp; 
<p><font face="Arial,Helvetica">You can keep incidence of colic to a minimum by following sound management practices such as:</font> 
<ul>
<li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">supply plenty of fresh, clean drinking water, (The only exception is when a horse is excessively hot. Then it should be given small sips of lukewarm water until it has recover.)</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">set up a regular parasite control program with the help of your equine practitioner. Utilize fecal testing to determine its effectiveness,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">using processed grains ( Steam crimping/rolling and grinding or pelleted),</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">avoid medications unless they are prescribed by your equine practitioner, especially pain-relief drugs (analgesics), which can cause ulcers,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">limiting the amount of grain provided in a single meal , divide daily concentrate rations into two or more feedings rather than one large one to avoid overloading the horse's digestive tract.</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">avoid feeding excessive grain and energy-dense supplements. (At least half the horse's energy requirements should be supplied through hay or forage. A better guide is that twice as much energy should be supplied from a roughage source than from concentrates.) Hay is best fed free-choice.</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">make dietary and other management changes as gradually as possible avoid sudden changes in diet,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">reduce stress. Horse's experiencing changes in environments or workloads are at a high risk of intestinal dysfunction</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">feed at regular times and intervals,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">feed good quality forages free of mold, weeds and foreign objects, feed a high quality diet comprised primarily of roughage where possible.</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">check hay, bedding, pasture and environment for potentially toxic substances, such as blister beetles, noxious weeds, and other ingestible foreign matter,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">offered dry hay while grazing high moisture pasture,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">provide exercise and/or turnout on a daily basis. Change the intensity/duration of an exercise regime gradually.</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">check the teeth routinely and float file, if necessary,</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">minimize unnecessary stress, and</font> 
</li><li><font face="Arial,Helvetica">know what is abnormal and normal for your horses.</font> </li></ul></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2010 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
					 <guid isPermaLink="true">http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/86/EQUINE-COLIC.html</guid>
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					  <title><![CDATA[A PARTIAL LIST OF PLANTS THAT ARE POISONOUS TO HORSES...]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/85/A-PARTIAL-LIST-OF-PLANTS-THAT-ARE-POISONOUS-TO-HORSES.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<p align="center"><b><font face="Tahoma">&nbsp;</font><font color="#000080" size="5">Plants can be toxic to horses </font></b></p>
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<td width="33%"><font color="#000000"><b>Alsike Clover<br/>Azalea, Rhododendron<br/>Star of Bethlehem<br/>Black Locust<br/>Black Walnut<br/>Bouncing Bet<br/>Brackenfern<br/>Buckeye and Horsechestnut<br/>Bulbs<br/>Common Burdock<br/>Buttercup<br/>Castorbean<br/>Catnip<br/>Cherry<br/>Christmas Plant (Poinsettia)<br/>Cocklebur<br/>Dumbcane (Aroids)<br/>Dutchman's Breeches<br/>Easter Lily<br/>English Ivy<br/>Ergot<br/>Fescue<br/>Foxtail Barley</b></font></td>
<td width="33%"><b><font color="#000000">Green False Hellebore<br/>Poison Hemlock<br/>Water Hemlock<br/>Buckeye and Horsechestnut<br/>Horsetail<br/>English Ivy<br/>Jack-in-the-Pulpit<br/>Jimsonweed<br/>Johnsongrass<br/>St. Johnswort<br/>Larkspur<br/>Easter Lily<br/>Black Locust<br/>Lupine<br/>Red Maple<br/>Marijuana<br/>Milkweed<br/>Mustards<br/>Tansy<br/>Tobacco<br/>Black Walnut<br/>Water Hemlock<br/>White Snakeroot</font></b></td>
<td width="34%"><b><font color="#000000">Yellow & White Sweetclover<br/>Yew<br/>Stinging Nettle<br/>Nightshades<br/>Red Oak<br/>Oats<br/>Oleander<br/>Pigweed<br/>Christmas Plant (Poinsettia)<br/>Poison Hemlock<br/>Pokeweed<br/>Jack-in-the-Pulpit<br/>Senecio, Ragwort<br/>Red Maple<br/>Azalea, Rhododendron<br/>Rhubarb<br/>Rosary Pea<br/>White Snakeroot<br/>Spurges<br/>St. Johnswort<br/>Star of Bethlehem<br/>Yellow & White Sweetclover</font></b></td></tr></tbody></table></div>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Wed, 02 Jun 2010 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[VIDEO OF FOAL IN UTERUS &amp; MARE FOALING!]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/84/VIDEO-OF-FOAL-IN-UTERUS-amp-MARE-FOALING.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[<em><strong>&nbsp;Video of a foal in uterus and the mare foaling. <br/>Great video!</strong></em><br/><br/><a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXLvbow2gDc">http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zXLvbow2gDc</a>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Fri, 21 May 2010 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[CARING FOR OUR MINIATURE HORSES IN COLD WEATHER!]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/83/CARING-FOR-OUR-MINIATURE-HORSES-IN-COLD-WEATHER.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<p>With all the extreme cold temperatures and snow in the Southeastern part of the U.S. this winter, I thought I would pass along some ideas on how to make your horses more comfortable and safe from the elements of these unusually cold winter months.&nbsp; The cold and snow is lasting much longer than usual, which can be very difficult on our horses.<br/><br/>Horses are well adapted to cold weather. As long as they have shelter from wind and wet, horses can stay comfortable when the temperatures plunge. A south-facing three-sided shelter with straw bedding will see a well-fed horse through the roughest winter weather. However, make sure the shelter is wide rather than deep or you'll find horses low on the pecking order afraid to go in.</p>
<p><strong>Blanketing</strong></p>
<p>Stabled horses need blanketing when they're turned out during the day, but the best blanket for an outside horse is his own full winter coat. If you do blanket your horse, make sure you take it off and brush him often. Also, realize that a blanket that is not warm enough is worse than no blanket at all. In cold weather, the hair coat stands up to trap additional warm air close to the body. A blanket keeps the coat flat.</p>
<p><strong>Feeding</strong></p>
<p>When temperatures dip, the best heat source for your horse is extra hay. The first step to winterizing, which you've already taken care of, is to get in enough good hay to last through until next year's hay crop. To calculate how much you need, figure on half a square bale per horse per day then add some to cover for the occasional moldy bale or extra cold weather. It's a good feeling to look at that stack of green, sweet smelling hay safely under a tarp and know that the horses won't go hungry.</p>
<p>For some folks, winter means feeding in the dark before going to work and after dark again when&nbsp;they get home in the evening. To guard against accidentally feeding a moldy flake which you didn't see in the dark, put aside any hay that doesn't smell nice until you can inspect it in daylight. It's also a good idea to shake out the flakes in case there's any dust in them.</p>
<p>To make sure all your horses get their fair share of hay, spread out one more pile than the number of horses. That way, when the boss horse keeps thinking another pile looks better than the one she's presently eating from, the other horses can move to new piles too.</p>
<p>A horse shouldn't lose weight in the winter. In fact, a little extra layer of fat to fend off the cold won't hurt. A thick winter coat can easily hide weight loss so it's important to use hands as well as eyes to monitor winter weight. By the time you see that the horse is getting thinner, it's too late.</p>
<p><strong>Water</strong></p>
<p>Watering horses in winter is a little more difficult than in summer. In winter, you can move your water trough up to the front of the field so the hose, which&nbsp;you can&nbsp;keep inside, will reach from the house. When it's time to refill the trough, you can use a hairdryer to melt the outside tap, bring out the hose and fill the trough. A stock tank heater keeps the water above freezing.</p>
<p>Some people believe horses can get by on snow. "Get by" they might, but so could we. Horses require a lot of water to digest dry feed. How much snow would they have to eat to provide the 2 to 3 gallons of water they need? If you're not convinced, ask your vet about the greater risk for impaction colic.</p>
<p><strong>Horses Feet In Winter<br/></strong><br/>&nbsp;If he's barefoot, spraying the sole with a nonstick cooking product, or even coating it with old fashioned vaseline, can help prevent the snow from balling up. In any case, don't expect your horse to walk on high heels. Carry a hoofpick with you and be prepared to stop periodically and pick out the icy build up.</p>
<p>Be careful bringing your horse into the barn after being outside. Snow ball feet are very slippery. Preferably, dig out the snow at the barn door. If you can get the hoofpick under the snow pack at the back of the foot, you can often pry it all out at once, especially if you coated the sole as suggested above. Be careful you don't dig into the frog, though. If you can't budge it, chip off the snow until it's even with the hoof wall and then wait for the hooves to warm up before removing the rest.</p>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Wed, 06 Jan 2010 00:00:00 PST</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[Understanding Beet Pulp As An EQUINE FEED]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/82/Understanding-Beet-Pulp-As-An-EQUINE-FEED.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<p>Beet pulp has been a popular feed for horses for years without many people really knowing why. 
<p>Beet pulp is a byproduct of the sugar beet industry and is predominant in the upper Midwest, Michigan, and California. Sugar beets look a lot like turnips that have been taking growth hormones--they are very large. The beets are grown and processed not so we have something to feed to our horses, but for the sugar content. After the sugar is processed and removed, the pulp is left over. Recently, the use of shredded beet pulp has become increasingly popular as a feed ingredient; first in the pet food industry followed by the horse feed market. 
<p>Today, about 90% of the beet pulp produced is sold to the export market in the pelleted form. The shredded beet pulp market is primarily domestic. Up until the last couple of years, shredded beet pulp was only available in bags, but now feed mills using it as an ingredient can buy it in bulk form. 
<p>Initially, consistency of particle size and stem and root contamination were a concern. Stems and roots look like small pieces of balsa wood and are typically about 1 to 2 inches in length and about a 1⁄4 to 1⁄2 inch in diameter. Utilizing improved screening systems the industry is continuing to do a better job of making the product cleaner and more consistent. 
<p>Beet pulp is often referred to as a "super fiber" due to its high digestibility and ease of fermentation. The reason is the lack of lignin in the fiber. Tall pastures and overly mature hay cannot be digested well by horses because of the high lignin content in the plant to give the stalk strength. In addition, high lignin content fibers like peanut hulls, oat hulls and rice hulls have very low fermentation properties and are, therefore, very low in caloric content. 
<p>Beet pulp, on the other hand, has about the same caloric content as oats. It is unusual to have a fiber product that is easier on the horse's digestive system and still provides the calorie content of a grain product. Furthermore, in the shredded form, the beet pulp provides some additional fiber length, often referred to as scratch factor, which is lacking in many alternative fiber sources and explains why shredded beet pulp is preferred over pelleted beet pulp in equine diets. 
<p>Individuals mixing their own rations need to understand that beet pulp is a very dry product at only about 5% moisture. If a horse consuming beet pulp does not chew long enough or provide enough saliva, the beet pulp has the potential to cause choke. This is why most horse owners soak the product in water prior to feeding. 
<p>One of the advantages of feeding a beet pulp based commercial feed is that the addition of oils and molasses eliminates the need for soaking. Also, beet pulp is lacking in nutrients such as Vitamin A and selenium. In a diet where a significant amount of beet pulp is fed, balancing nutrients can be a challenge. When used as an ingredient in manufactured feeds, the supplier can properly supplement for these critical nutrients. 
<p>With the current focus in the horse industry on lowering non-structural carbohydrates in equine diets, it is important to note beet pulp has an average NSC of around 12%. This fact, combined with its good calorie content and ease of fermentation, this makes it an excellent ingredient for formulating high fiber, low carbohydrate diets. 
<p>These beet pulp based diets can benefit not only older horses but also horses suffering from gastric ulcers, respiratory issues, metabolic diseases and many other feeding situations. For horses with poor quality fiber sources, beet pulp based feeds can provide a consistent, cost effective, and convenient forage alternative. 
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<p><a href="http://www.triplecrownfeed.com/home.php" target="_blank"></a>&nbsp;</p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p></p>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Mon, 14 Sep 2009 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[First foal of 2009 at W W Miniatures]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/80/First-foal-of-2009-at-W-W-Miniatures.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<p><i><font style="FONT-SIZE: 14pt" size="5">Born on March 28, 2009<br/></font></i>At 6:50 AM 17.5" Tall <br/>Weighing approx. 18 lbs.<br/>Filly with 2 blue eyes!<br/><br/>Sire- 26" Landfair Moons Go Boy<br/>Dam- 32.5" Great Oaks Crystal Gray Creme<br/><br/>Introducing:<br/><font style="FONT-SIZE: 12pt" color="#ff0000" size="4">WWC MINIATURES GO BRANDI</font></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi029.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi030.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi032.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi033.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi035.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi041.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>
<p><img height="300" src="http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/2009%20Foals/Brandi044.jpg" width="400" border="0"/></p>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Bill or Wanalynn Chapman)</author>
					  <pubDate>Mon, 30 Mar 2009 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[RH FACTOR IN FOALS]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/79/RH-FACTOR-IN-FOALS.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[
<p class="EC_MsoNormal" style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold"><big><big><big><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><big>THE RH FACTOR FOAL</big></span><font size="5"> </font></big></big></big></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><span style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold">What is an RH Factor Foal?</span> The common "layman's" term usually referred to with humans is a "Blue Baby". It is when the mother's blood is RH negative and father is positive, and the baby ends up also being positive. The mother's antibodies are set up to work AGAINST the baby's. When this occurs with equines, the technical term is "Neonatal Isoerythrolysis" (NI). The following paragraph briefly explains:</span> </p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Equine neonatal isoerythrolysis (NI) is a condition of foals that are born healthy, but develop a possibly life-threatening hemolytic anemia within hours to a few days after the ingestion of their mare&#8217;s colostrum. This condition occurs as a result of a hypersensitivity reaction between the mare&#8217;s antibodies in the colostrum and inherited antigens from the sire that are present on the foal's red blood cells.<br/><br/>To read more on the clinical description of the condition, we recommend reading the link provided:</span> </p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><a href="http://www.vet.uga.edu/vpp/clerk/Bouchelle/index.php" target="_blank"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><font color="#0068cf">http://www.vet.uga.edu/vpp/clerk/Bouchelle/index.php</font></span></a> </p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial"><br/>Simply put, it's the antibodies in the mare's colostrum that is actually working AGAINST the newborn's. So, the colostrum will KILL the foal. This means locating colostrum from a different source and hand feeding the foal for the first few days of its life. It also means milking out the mom's colostrum until her regular milk is in. You do NOT want her to dry up. It can take up to three days of milking to be sure there is no colostrum remaining. The mare's regular milk is not a problem for the foal. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">As with all of these "abnormal" circumstances, it is important to keep in touch with your vet. We, plus other breeding farms, have more than one mare birthing out during the season. This makes it a little easier to carefully take some colostrum from them during the first 24 hours of their foalings and freeze it for emergencies just like this. Another source for colostrum may be through your veterinarian who should know of horse breeding farms that can provide the Liquid Gold to your little one. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">We advise people who have a mare due, to check with their vet regarding colostrum sources BEFORE the mare is close to foaling. There can be other situations with foaling where having a back-up is necessary -- One being, the mare has not bagged up! </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">How do you know if your newborn is a "RH Factor Foal"? How WE figured it out when it happened to us, was by observing the foal's behavior.... Each time the little one nursed, we started noticing that the foal would become lethargic and just wanted to fall asleep. A healthy foal would be more and more energetic and just take short naps. It only took a couple of nursings to make us realize that we needed to jump in and take action. Another symptom a person may notice is the foal appears jaundiced. (Yellowing in the white's of the baby's eyes and perhaps gum discoloration.) This indicates that the anemic reaction is occurring, as discussed in the article linked above. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">There is also an easy "at home" test that some people like to do immediately after each birth: In a small CLEAN dish or cup, take a few drops of blood from the umbilical cord off the placenta (which may still be hanging from the mare) and add a few drops of the mare's colostrum. If it separates (curdles), you need to find a different source of colostrum. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">While milking the mare out for those three days, some people like to muzzle the foal. This allows the pair to remain together and bond. For us, we didn't have a small enough muzzle, so kept them together, but built a separation between them with straw bales. They were kept under constant surveillance either in person and/or by camera. And since we were hand feeding the baby every two hours, this wasn't too difficult.....just tiring. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">By recommending the three day milking of the mother, we are being cautious. We want to ensure that there is absolutely NO colostrum remaining mixed into her regular milk. Normally, a foal's system only receives the benefit of colostrum during its first 24 to 36 hours of life, but every foal is different, so we feel it's wise to play it safe. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">For hand feeding, our vet has always advised to do it every two hours (at least) around the clock. Having a second person to assist is a life-saver. We have used a human baby rubber "ear syringe" to feed with good success. Other people prefer to use either a medical syringe or a baby bottle. The amount can vary between from 2 to 4 ounces per feeding, depending on the baby. We let the foal tell us how much it wants. </span></p>
<p class="EC_MsoNormal"><span style="FONT-SIZE: 10pt; FONT-FAMILY: Arial">Again, the above is based on our OWN experience. Please be sure to always check with your veterinarian for advice. </span></p>]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Marilyn )</author>
					  <pubDate>Sun, 29 Mar 2009 00:00:00 PDT</pubDate>
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					  <title><![CDATA[Patches (BIG) Adventure]]></title>
					  <link>http://www.minihorsefarms.net/blogs/78/Patches-BIG-Adventure.html</link>
					  <description><![CDATA[[i][size=18]This morning when I got up it was just about daylight!&nbsp; I always look out the kitchen window to check on the "Brat Pack",&nbsp; I always count heads!<br/>As I was looking I saw something out of the corner of my eye in with the Big girls!&nbsp; Nine Big girls most of them are 32" and over!&nbsp; At first I thought I saw a baby standing beside of Deserea, Then I looked again and relized it was Patches! :shock:&nbsp; All kinds of thing went through my head, is she OK?, are they being mean to her?, how in the world did she get in with them?<br/>Then I watched as Molly was trying to see Patches, as she got close to her Deserea spun her butt to Molly to protect Patches!&nbsp; Deserea and old Princess was on either side of Patches and keeping all the others horses at bay!&nbsp; I went out to get Patches and Deserea wasn&#039;t going to let me near her either!&nbsp; :roll:&nbsp; I talked gentley to Deserea and she finally let me go to Patches!&nbsp; She was soaked to the bone from it raining all night!&nbsp; Deserea starting mouthing to me, as if to say, "I took care of the baby girl for you daddy"&nbsp; I got patches through the gate and headed back to the "Brat Pack" barn and Angel started calling for Patches! :grin:&nbsp; She missed her little sister! :wink: <br/>After looking around I found a very small opening in the fence that she squeezed through!<br/>There&#039;s never a dull moment here at W.W. Miniatures! :lol: <br/>Bill[/size][/i]<br/>[img]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/wwminis/The%20Brat%20Pack/Patches1.jpg[/img]]]></description>
					  <author>no@spam.com (Bill or Wanalynn Chapman)</author>
					  <pubDate>Sat, 28 Feb 2009 00:00:00 PST</pubDate>
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